Monday, 26 November 2012


Neuter your Kitty Sooner Rather than Later

I don't want to be neutered
Should you neuter your cat?  There are those who have kittens who think it’s a dreadful idea, then there are those who don’t have cats and think all cats should be neutered and so get a reputation for not liking cats.

The truth of the situation is that unless you want your cat to have, or father, kittens of its own, you really need to consider neutering your cat as soon as possible.  Many people think that they have to wait until their cat goes through her first “heat” cycle.  This isn’t the case.  She’ll be just fine if you get her done as soon as her system is mature enough to cope.  Usually this is around 5 months old.  If you wait and she has that cycle, be prepared for the loudly serenading “beaus” who come “calling” at 2am! 

My cat
I can see in the dark
Neutering your cat early means that they are less likely to have much reaction to the operation at all – as with humans, the young are more adaptable to their situations.  Within a couple of hours of surgery, a neutered kitten is likely to be back on his feet and wobbling in the direction of his supper!  He will wash and wash at the stitches until you are terrified that he will wash them out, and you’ll take some preventative measure to ensure that nothing happens to them overnight!  By the next day kitty should be swinging once again from your curtains. 

Although most cat owners can see the advantage of neutering their queen, not many realize that by neutering a tom, they not only stop him from populating the local area with off-spring, but they will take that “tom cat” smell away.  The urine of a neutered tom cat usually smells less intrusive that that of a non-neutered one. 

Regardless what some people may think, neutering your kitten isn’t a negative thing.  If anything you are liberating your cat to go out into the world, confident that it’s not going to be helping to populate it!  

Wednesday, 21 November 2012


cat grooming
I like being groomed

Grooming your Kitty

Cats are, by nature, clean animals and don’t like being dirty.  This is also true about kittens.  Even the youngest kitty can be seen trying to wash itself.  There are instances during your cat’s life however when it will be unable to groom itself, or it could be that the kind of cat you choose has high maintenance fur (such as a long hair Persian) and needs a little extra help to keep its fur in good condition.

Despite not wanting to be dirty, and despite the constant self-grooming, this does not automatically mean that your kitten is going to enjoy your interference in its personal grooming routine.  The best way to avoid this is to introduce your kitten to being groomed by you from the very start.  If you get into an immediate habit of combing and brushing kitty once or twice a week, then if the day comes when he’s just in too much mess, or too sick to manage himself, then he won’t mind your intervention. 

Although you won’t be able to introduce him to a bath, you can introduce him to the idea of a bath using a dish (without water) and a damp face cloth, but this should be done every few weeks.  Grooming in the form of brushing however should be done more frequently.  One perfect time for this is at night when you’re watching TV and kitty crawls up onto your lap. 

Have a brush to hand (a baby brush is fine for a short haired kitten) and gently brush the kitten in the direction his fur grows.  He’ll get used to how this feels, and often will start to purr his approval.  If you have a longer-furred kitten, set aside half an hour at least twice a week to thoroughly comb through his coat.  This will ensure that tangles don’t build up and his coat will remain healthy looking. 

As he gets older, and is allowed outdoors, make sure that you spend 5-10 minutes with him every week to gently put the flea comb through his fur.  This means that you are sure that he remains flea-free, and at the very least, can initiate a flea-removal treatment should your comb find something.

The time you invest grooming your kitten will pay dividends when he becomes a cat that needs help with cleaning his fur.  A cat that is used to being groomed is far easier to maintain than one who turns every grooming session into a battle of wills!

Friday, 24 February 2012

The Furminator


Furminator Deluxe Cat
More photos ==>here

Furminator Deluxe Cat Reviews

Best cat deShedding tool ever!!! It even comes with a fur ejector button., 9 Feb 2011

This product is excellent. When used regularly it will leave your animal with a sleeky coat and does reduce shedding by quite a lot. The ejector button is fantastic and really works - essential if you need to keep one hand on the animal to stop it running away. A few words of caution though:

FURminator Short Hair DeShedding Tool for Small Cats
More photos==>here

1) Use this product gently and don't overdo it. The first time I tried it on my cat I was rather overzealous and he looked distinctly thinner on top!
2) There are a lot of fakes out there so ensure you buy from Amazon itself or a reputable dealer.  Yes, the furminator is pricey but the genuine article does the job extremely well.

Another bonus is that the furminator is great for removing hairs from smooth fabrics such as cotton bedding and fleece blankets. Again, however, use with caution as it can snag fabric if sufficient care is not taken.

Head here for further reviews==>furminator

Tuesday, 21 February 2012


How to Teach Your Cat to Accept Brushing
Cats love to be stroked, so it is easy to teach your cat to accept brushing. Brushing will help to remove loose hair and prevent kitty getting a fur ball stuck in his throat. 
It also helps to remove irritating prickles he may have picked up on his walks outside.

You will be able to keep tabs on his general health if you brush him regularly, too.
Choose a time when kitty is feeling a bit sleepy and wants to curl up on your warm
lap. Have the brush handy so you don’t have to disturb him to get it. If he hasn’t seen
the brush before, hold it near his face so he can sniff it all over if he wants. In this way
he will understand that it won’t hurt him and so he won’t be frightened of it.

Ooh! that's lovely

In fact, it’s a good idea to rub your own hands along the handle of the brush so he can detect
your scent on it. If he’s used to you, he will be reassured that this strange tool is to be

Once he has inspected and accepted the brush, begin to brush your cat with slow and
gently movements. Always brush with the lay of the hair, not against it. If kitty tries to
grab the brush with his paws to play with it, put it away immediately. You don’t want
him to start playing every time he sees the brush, you want him to learn to keep still
and let you brush him.

As soon as kitty has quieted down, start to brush him again. Start at about ear level
and work backwards with a long, fluid movement. Never try to brush his face, or you
might damage his delicate eyes and whiskers. Brushing the tangles out of badly
matted hair can cause pain, so be careful to do it gently. If kitty expects pain every
time he sees the brush, he won’t be amenable to the process.

Not now

Several different brushes can be useful when grooming your pet. A large brush with
stiff bristles is good for the body, while a smaller, softer brush can be easier to manage
the belly and tail. If your cat has long tail hairs, you may need a brush with bristles
that are a little stiffer then the smaller brush has. A comb can also be a handy part of
your cat grooming toolbox.

Wednesday, 15 February 2012

How to Teach Your Cat to Come When Called

How to Teach Your Cat to Come When Called

Hey, that's my food.

You need to make sure that your cat will come to you when you call him/her for several reasons. You may not want to leave him outside if you need to leave the house for a while. You may want him to come indoors at night.  You may have seen dogs or other cats about and wish to protect him from unecessary confrontations, especially if he is young.

It is quite easy to train a cat to come when called and the simplest way is to use his feeding routine as the training ground. It's not important to try to teach him his name as a cat's name is only significant to its owners, the cat really isn't bothered! Owners like to give their cat a name but a cat will answer to anything as long as it is spoken in the same tone of voice. It is the basic sound of the call which matters.

But back to using food for training.  At feeding time, make a loud and specific noise, like rattling a spoon or knife on the side of the can of cat food. If he eats mainly dry food shake the box of cat biscuits as loudly as you can.  He will soon learn to associate these sounds with  feeding time and will come at once.

At the same time repeat his name over and over again, loudly enough for him to hear it as you rattle the cat food can or shake the biscuit box. He will learn to link the sound of his name, together with the other noises, with being fed and will come very quickly.

cats eating

Soon you will find that he comes running up to you just when you call his name, without the other feeding noises being present. Of course, rewarding him with a little treat will help reinforce this good behaviour.

  If it's not feeding time but he has still come when you called offer him something nice, whether it is a food treat, petting and words of praise or some playtime together.  A simple home-made toy, such as a scrap of paper tied to a string, can provide great fun, especially for kittens.  Cats respond as much to affectionate attention as to food and when this is used to encourage desirable behaviour it produces good results.

Some cats can be a bit slow to pick up the cues an owner gives them.  If your cat doesn't come for food as soon as he hears the signals, feed him a smaller amount.  He will respond much more readily if he is really hungry, so call his name loudly while you rattle that spoon in the can or shake that biscuit box!

Monday, 13 February 2012


How to Stop Your Cat Going Outside When He/She Shouldn't

I'm off,  I've had enough.

 You may be quite happy for your cat to wander outside if you have a yard or garden or live in a rural area but it is a different matter when you live in a built-up district with busy traffic routes nearby.

Cats are full of curiosity and will usually head for the door the moment it is opened.  After a quick look round, off they go to explore the territory, which can be full of dangers and frightening experiences.

It is a sad fact that large numbers of cats are killed every year on our roads. This is obviously a tragedy for the cats concerned and also for their owners who will be heartbroken at the loss of their beloved pet.  Serious injuries occur as well as deaths, which cause the poor animal untold pain and cost their loving owners a fortune in vet's bills.  

Apart from these horrors the great outdoors in an urban environment can be extremely frightening for a cat. It is full of sudden loud noises of every pitch.  Fast-moving vehicles approach from all directions and there are too many people rushing around.

Who's the prettiest?

So how do you stop your cat from rushing outside every time you open the door?  This is no easy task but it can be done with perseverance and patience.  Of course, it is easier to train a young kitten in the way you want it to behave than an adult cat whose habits are already well-formed.

 As with any form of animal training the best approach is to work with the cat's 
natural instincts.  It is well-known that cats hate sudden loud noises which they perceive as a threat.  So when you see your cat heading for the open door, startle them by banging an object such as a heavy book or rolled-up newspaper onto a hard surface, or clap your hands loudly while yelling 'NO' at the top of your voice, - anything to stop them in their tracks and get them to turn back to the safety of the room.

BUT - make sure you are between the cat and the door when you do this. DON'T EVER do it when you are behind the cat or you will get the opposite effect and scare him/her  right out of the door!

I can't get down now

Another effective method is to get someone else to stand just outside the open door with a water pistol or spray bottle. As soon as the cat tries to go outside give it a good squirt on the nose which will send him straight back inside. If this person can make the loud scary noise at the same time, or if you can enlist a third person to do this, it will be even more of an effective deterrent.  

Your role is to wait inside the room so that when the poor frightened cat comes running back inside you can be there to welcome him with open arms, to cuddle and soothe him and praise him for being a good cat.  This would be a good opportunity to give him a treat.  

Best of all, if you have time to call the cat back before he gets to the open door, do so in a voice full of alarm.   Do this before the scary noise and the water spray happen and he will soon realise that your alarmed voice is warning him that something nasty is going to happen to him and that he had better avoid it.

Cat outside my house

This could also be useful in other situations.  If you see him about to jump over a neighbour's fence, for example, or go somewhere where you know there's a dog, or a rival cat, calling him back in an alarmed voice will tell him there's the threat of danger.

Never forget to lavish praise and petting on your cat when he does the right thing and use treats as a reward to reinforce his good behaviour.

Sunday, 5 February 2012

How to Stop Your Cat Jumping on Counters and Tables

cat on table


How to Stop Your Cat Jumping on Counters and Tables

A very important message to get across to your cat from day one is that tables and kitchen worktops (or counters) are 'no go' areas as far as he/she is concerned.  And that means always.  Some people don't seem to have problem with this.  Even houseproud people who take a pride in keeping their home neat and clean can somehow find it cute to have their cat up close beside them as they prepare their family's meals etc.

 Such people may insist that their cat is very clean  - "Look how often she washes herself" they argue.  Unfortunately cats' paws, (not to mention their rear ends!), carry literally millions of bacteria which are known to be dangerous to humans.  Such powerful germs cannot be removed by a cat's lick, however thoroughly she seems to do it.

When your cat uses its litter tray it will pick up these dangerous bugs on its feet from scratching and scraping around in the litter.  If it  goes to the toilet outdoors the same thing will happen as she conscientiously tries to cover up what she has done. 

If she jumps up onto your food preparation or eating surfaces afterwards she can't avoid donating a generous load of these bugs to you and your family.  Sitting down on the surface makes it even worse as cats are not known for using toilet paper or wearing pants! 

Allowing your cat to persist in this unsanitary behaviour is a real health hazard.  So, don't lose any time in training her in more hygienic habits.

Cats on worktops can be dangerous in other ways too.  They can cause a distraction when hot food, pots and pans are around causing burns or scalds or they can knock something over, causing accidents or breakages.  So how do we break this bad habit?

The trick is to use something she hates to change her behaviour.  Most cats hate sudden, loud noise.  They associate it with a sense of danger so want to escape to a safe place.  If you make a loud noise in her face when she jumps up, she’ll quickly jump back down.  Make sure you repeat the noise every time she repeats the behaviour and she'll soon get the message that it's not a good idea and stop doing it. 

There are all kinds of noises that different people favour when training their cat.  It can be very effective just to say "No", loudly and firmly, to the cat's face every time she jumps up.  An empty plastic bottle containing a few pebbles or marbles can work well if you rattle it loudly in the cat's face.  A glass bottle makes more noise but there is the risk that it might break and cause injury.

cat on table againcat on kitchen top
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Some cat owners say that growling in the cat's face works, as this is the way that mother cats train their kittens about what is and is not permitted.  This is one way in which cats naturally communicate with each other so hopefully the message will get through to your pet. 

Many people just roll a few sheets of newspaper up and smack it down on the table or worktop right in front of the cat. This should startle her enough to make her jump off.  If she doesn't, pick her up by the scruff of the neck, the way a mother cat would, and put her down on the floor.

Another method is to spray the cat in the face with a spray bottle of clean cold water. This will cause her no harm but she won't enjoy it and will run for cover!

If, in spite of all your best efforts, your cat still insists on jumping up where she shouldn't be, try using lots of different methods at the same time. You could try blowing a child's toy horn in her face the minute she jumps up while spraying her face with cold water at the same time and then giving her a sharp tap on the head with the rolled up newspaper.  If you are firm about following this routine every time she tries to jump up she'll soon get sick of it and think it's just not worth all the stress!

What you must never, ever do is to pick your cat up from the table or work surface and then give her a kiss and a cuddle.  This is just rewarding the cat for the very behaviour you are trying to discourage and she will be totally confused.  When she wants some more of your affectionate attention she will repeat the same behaviour you are telling her to stop.  So, your own behaviour should be firm, clear and consistent.  This is the only way to get positive results.  Good luck!

You might find the following books useful:- 1.  Stop Cat Peeing  

2. 18 Ways to Stop Cat Urine Odour 

3. Solutions to Your Cat's Behaviour Problems

4. Ultimate Cat Secrets